Limited entry has improved the bottlenecks a lot but I think you have to enter the lottery the day before you want to go.
Hiking down into Bryce is great. Or driving to lookouts if you're with non-hikers.
Capitol Reef is kind of forgettable but Sulfur Spring is a great hike through a creek and down a waterfall. Begins outside Capitol Reef and ends at the visitors center so having two cars is best.
Driving through Escalante on Hwy 12 is highly recommended. Unless you're afraid of heights.
If you hike Lower/Upper Calf Creek Falls there's fine dining nearby in Boulder UT at Hell's Backbone. Had some good meals there.